In Packed Churches and Secret Masses, Papal Visit Brings Hope to Gulf Catholics

By Sylvia Westall and Stephen Kalin

DUBAI/RIYADH – In Dubai’s bustling churches and Riyadh’s discreet gatherings, Catholics across the Gulf are eagerly anticipating Pope Francis’ landmark visit to the United Arab Emirates next week.

This historic trip marks the first time a pope has traveled to the Arabian Peninsula, and many expatriate Catholics—primarily from India and the Philippines—are hopeful it will lead to greater acceptance for the estimated two million Catholics living in the region. They are advocating for improved transport to UAE churches and the right to establish places of worship in conservative Saudi Arabia.

The UAE is making strides toward showcasing its commitment to religious tolerance amid broader social reforms throughout the Gulf. A government spokesperson emphasized that the visit would reflect the UAE’s long-held identity as a hub of cultural diversity that connects people and faiths across the globe.

The Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi, Mohammed bin Zayed al-Nahyan, extended the invitation to the pope following their meeting at the Vatican in 2016. The spokesperson noted that given the significant Catholic population in the UAE, the visit was well-planned and anticipated.

The Vatican has indicated that the focus of the trip will be on promoting inter-religious dialogue and peace. A local Catholic, Claudia Rumie, expressed optimism, stating it would help foster respect for all religions.

Rumie attends mass in Dubai at a church located near a site that accommodates various faiths, and she will join around 120,000 Catholics at a mass led by the pope in a stadium in Abu Dhabi. While UAE citizens largely practice Sunni Islam, expatriates working in sectors such as education and construction vastly outnumber locals, with Catholics making up a significant portion of the workforce.

Despite the UAE’s reputation for being relatively tolerant, there are restrictions in place regarding religious practices. Authorities prohibit unsanctioned gatherings, and non-Muslims cannot engage in proselytizing. Churches are not allowed to display visible crosses or ring bells, and space for worship is limited, resulting in only nine Catholic churches operating in the UAE. These churches often experience overcrowding on weekends, with many attendees spilling outside.

Father Reinhold Sahner, a parish priest in Dubai, highlighted the challenges faced by some parishioners, including long commutes to church. He remarked that having the pope visit would shed light on these challenges and bring awareness to their situation.

While the pope’s visit is isolated to the UAE, it has implications for Catholics throughout the Gulf, who are hopeful for increased acceptance in their own countries. In Qatar, despite having churches, many Catholics feel restricted outside their designated areas of worship, with stringent security measures in place.

Churches exist in Oman, Kuwait, and Bahrain, but in ultra-conservative Saudi Arabia, they are banned. Some Catholics in Riyadh have resorted to attending mass in private residences and embassies, where they report a degree of surveillance but generally face minimal interference from authorities.

There are signs of a changing landscape; recent outreach by Saudi officials to Christian representatives has sparked hope for reform. Last year, King Salman met with the Vatican’s representative for inter-religious dialogue. Additionally, the Crown Prince has expressed a commitment to promoting moderate Islam that embraces all faiths.

Catholics residing in Saudi Arabia report a gradual shift in attitudes among citizens, reflecting the broader transformations initiated by the government. Although they tend to avoid displaying overt Christian symbols, some families are becoming more open about their faith, feeling a decrease in the strict enforcement of religious rules.